Experience the excitement of jewelry
26 November 2021
Together with Mathias Kiss, Ségolène Dangleterre has created three pieces of jewelry. Two square bronze rings, layered and shaped like a cornice. But a cornice with a difference: this one is deconstructed, broken with right angles, and extends over two fingers. It is reminiscent of Mathias Kiss’s “90 Degrees” installation at the Palais de Tokyo: like snakes, the cornices emerged from the ceiling, broke off, and extended to the floor. “We had to adapt to the constraints of miniaturization, so the cornice is devoid of any ornamentation, without acanthus leaves or scrolls. And there’s no stone,” says Ségolène Dangleterre. These “90 Degrees” artist pieces are numbered and produced in limited series, and bear Mathias Kiss’ name.
SHOP the rings
13 November 2021
What an excellent idea and yet so simple… The Italian jeweler Vhernier, expert in chain work (Italy excels in its manufacture of course), has designed a flat link with a tiny slit. This makes it possible to join together two, three, ten, even a hundred links! Vhernier sells as standard a bracelet with 12 links (from €1,000) or a necklace with 24, and then it’s up to each person to do what they want, depending on their tastes and budget. As the links are available individually in pink gold, titanium or pavé (diamonds, tsavorites or sapphires), you can add one to mark each new special occasion. A modern version of the traditional pearl necklace.
21 October 2021
Brands offering vermeil, gold-plating and gold-plated brass are flying high. This is due to their popularity with customers who are sensitive both to price (they’re less expensive than gold) and to all things ultra-creative. However, it’s important to be aware of the difference between the three. Used since ancient times, vermeil is silver covered with a layer of gold of at least 5 microns. It comes with a mandatory hallmark, a V (for vermeil) next to a diamond and an oval – hallmarks of the manufacturer and importer. Gold plating is brass coated with a layer of gold of between 3 and 5 microns or Pomponne, a copper and gold lining. It bears no particular hallmark, but some manufacturers include their logo along with the number of gold carats. Finally, gold-plated brass is an alloy, a mixture of copper and zinc, covered with a layer of gold of less than 1 micron. Of course, vermeil remains the most expensive of these metals because it is tied to the price of silver, but over time, thanks to silver’s adhesion, the gold is slower to disappear.
13 October 2021
There’s nothing like lacquer to satisfy that crazy desire for color and optimism! Opaque, smooth and shiny without sparkling like an amethyst or a sapphire, the material is omnipresent in collections. It seems that the pieces have been painted in bright and joyful, even fluorescent, colors – always treated in architectural, graphic blocks. Some collections are particularly noteworthy – Alice Cicolini, by Charlotte de la Rochefoucauld for Dauphin and that of Marc Deloche. On a split ring evoking a rolled leaf, de la Rochefoucauld juxtaposes rectangles of red and orange lacquer, punctuated by emerald or ruby. Deloche, who is also a jeweler and architect, creates a chromatic confrontation with opaque ornamental stones: striated malachite, turquoise, lapis lazuli, and coral. The contrast is particularly successful when the two end up blending into each other.
11 October 2021
I simply fell in love with Tabayer’s bracelet, with its pure form and powerful volume, paved with diamonds that seem almost strewn at random. I was also surprised by its extreme lightness – to the point of wondering if it was really gold at all. “It’s hollowed out, with walls of varying thicknesses depending on their location, the aim being to find the ideal weight, making it super-comfortable to wear. That would have been impossible with solid gold,” explains the young founder of Tabayer Nigora Tokhtabayeva. Other designers (like Lauren Rubinski) have adopted this “trick” associated with affordable jewelry brands like Histoire d’Or and Maty. What a great idea – and one that marks the shattering of yet another taboo: here too, borders are shifting and minds opening up. With the price of gold reaching new highs – between 35 and 50 euros per gram, and higher still for fairmined gold (as in this piece) – this approach is likely to be a trendsetter.
04 October 2021
Balmain’s spectacular spring-summer ‘22 show is a celebration of Olivier Rousteing’s 10 years as artistic director. His amazing work with links – the most basic element of a chain – serves to confirm his status of king of opulence and bejeweled apparel. Take the chains he embroiders on leather jackets or works into draping. Or the trompe l’oeil version on white quilted leather. Or indeed the variety that seems wrapped around the body like a bandage – an omnipresent theme alluding to Rousteing’s recent accident. It was to conceal his burns that he began wearing rings on all fingers like those in the show. And as the central element of this collection, links even become a garment in their own right when Roustaing enlarges them, turning them into an ultra-sexy top. Magnificent.
Treat yourself to a beautiful vintage American gold chain bracelet in the TFJP Shop
29 September 2021
Too big, too fragile, too disturbing, too bulky, too outrageous, too eccentric, too over-the-top… just too much. That’s what you’ll say when you discover the mask clipped on the nose, the necklace-sculpture swirling around the neck or the metal corals unfolding in the mouth. Our relationship with contemporary and artist’s jewelry remains complex. More akin to manifesto and performance, such pieces currently only appeal to a minority. But borders, codes and symbols are all in the mind – they change and evolve. So who knows what lies ahead?
20 September 2021
The glazed tomato blushing in the garden, the blown glass bottle containing a twig, the snail roaming in the morning dew, the donkey in gray flannel or the painting palette of designer and illustrator Marin Montagut… Renard’s pendants are figurative, never conceptual. “My work is completely instinctive and must speak for itself,” says Renard. You get a sense of authenticity, rurality (she spends part of her time in Auvergne), the emotions generated by the tiny details of everyday life, and of work done by hand. Everything is made of bronze using the lost wax technique, and always in small series. “From time to time I work together with a ceramist or glassblower using the same approach, and the idea of making a profit doesn’t even come into it.” No wonder that Japan, where I discovered Renard a few years ago in a store in the Ayoama district, is so taken with his work.
14 September 2021
Gaia Repossi, artistic director of the brand founded by her father (now owned by LVMH), has created a jewelry collection inspired by the world of Robert Mapplethorpe. It was with one of his works (Puerto Rico 1981) that she began her personal collection of photographs. Drawing on the archives of the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation and the Getty Research Institute, her pieces are based on those worn by the artist, such as the multi-chain diamond necklace. Others are interpretations of elements found in his photographs and collages. Among my favorites is the black and yellow gold ring, whose shape, which spans two fingers, is based on the American flag in which Lisa Lyon is wrapped in a 1982 photo. Not to mention the necklace adorned with a lobster claw (a recurring feature of Mapplethorpe’s work). In this type of “post-mortem collaboration”, it’s always intriguing to wonder what the original artist would have made of it all – given that he used to make jewelry for himself and his friends…
09 September 2021
This very young brand (which uses recycled gold and synthetic diamonds) has taken on designer Philippe Airaud, whose talent is beyond question (he often works in the shadows for major houses). True to his ultra-minimalist style, he works with curves evoking “the traces of the wind in the desert” – an inspiration is reflected in two flagship models: an open necklace and an open ring with a synthetic diamond at each end. They face each other, one emerald cut, the other oval. A neo Toi & Moi, or in the words of Airaud himself, “a face-to-face encounter”. After red, yellow and white gold, this latest version comes in black, matte and charcoal gold. The asymmetrical synthetic stones, set in yellow gold, create luminous counterpoints. Beautiful.
Experience the excitement of jewelry
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